Sea-Doo Ribbon Delete Kit: 1630 ACE Performance Mod

The Sea-Doo "ribbon" — the OEM rubber air-management strip running along the intake manifold pulse-damper section on the 1630 ACE platform — is one of those parts that exists for OEM-level reasons and gets in the way of the boat the moment you start chasing performance.

It's there for noise compliance, pulse damping, and a small amount of induction smoothing. It is not there for airflow. On a stock craft cruising at half-throttle, you'll never notice it. On a Stage 2 build pushing the supercharger past its factory comfort zone, the ribbon becomes a measurable restriction in the intake tract.

A **Sea-Doo ribbon delete kit** removes the ribbon, plugs the manifold cleanly with a billet aluminum disc, and gives the air column a smooth, unrestricted path into the supercharger. GT40Marine's kit retails at $160, includes the hole saw needed to do the job cleanly, and ships with the billet plug, ring, brackets, and hardware to finish the install.

This page covers what the ribbon actually does, what changes when you remove it, who should and shouldn't run a delete, and how the GT40Marine kit compares.

What the Sea-Doo ribbon actually is

On the 1630 ACE intake manifold, BRP installs a rubber strip — the "ribbon" — that runs through an internal pulse-damper chamber. Its job, as designed, is twofold:

**Noise compliance.** PWC sound emissions are regulated. The ribbon dampens intake pulses that would otherwise create induction noise outside the legal envelope.

**Smoothing pulses.** The supercharger produces pressure pulses on its inlet and outlet. The ribbon and its chamber act as a small expansion volume that softens those pulses before they reach the supercharger or the throttle body.

The factory designed the system around the 230 HP calibration first, then scaled it up for the 300 and 325 HP trims. The ribbon's restriction is acceptable at 230 HP. It becomes a measurable headwind on builds running higher boost.

What a ribbon delete kit changes

Removing the ribbon and plugging the chamber cleanly with a billet aluminum plug accomplishes three things:

**Lower intake-tract restriction.** Air flows past the former ribbon location without the resistance of the rubber strip and chamber expansion. On a logger, this typically shows as slightly higher inlet pressure at the throttle body for the same supercharger output.

**Cleaner pulse behavior on aggressive tunes.** Stage 2+ calibrators report that the post-delete pulse signature is sharper and easier to map. Boost ramp-up tightens slightly.

**Quieter pulse chamber under load.** Counterintuitive but real — without the ribbon vibrating in the chamber, the intake side actually develops a cleaner, less "buzzy" noise signature under heavy throttle. The induction is louder; the pulse-chamber rattle is gone.

What the ribbon delete does *not* do on its own: it does not unlock 20 HP. It does not magically replace a tune. It is one of several small restrictions in the intake tract, and removing it returns a small but measurable amount of capability.

The honest framing: a ribbon delete is a complementary upgrade. It's worth doing if you're already running an aftermarket intake, an OLC kit, and a Stage 2 tune. It's not worth doing as a standalone first mod on a stock craft.

Who should run a ribbon delete

Run a ribbon delete if:

• You're at Stage 2+ — intake, cooling, tune, possibly an exhaust.
• You're running an aftermarket calibration that benefits from a cleaner intake-pressure signal.
• You're chasing top-speed numbers on a 300 or 325 HP platform.
• Your build philosophy is "remove every unnecessary restriction."

Don't run a ribbon delete if:

• Your craft is stock and you're looking for your first mod. Start with an intake.
• You ride in a noise-regulated zone where induction sound limits are enforced.
• You're under warranty and unwilling to discuss any future intake-side claim with your dealer.

What's in the GT40Marine ribbon delete kit

The kit retails at $160 and includes:

• **3-1/8" red hole saw.** The exact diameter required to cut the ribbon mounting surface for a clean plug fit. Most ribbon delete jobs go sideways because the installer used a guess-and-check hole saw. We supply the right one.
• **Billet aluminum plug.** Machined to seat in the cut chamber with a clean seal. Anodized for corrosion resistance.
• **Retaining ring.** Locks the plug in position under boost.
• **Mounting brackets.** Position the plug accurately during install.
• **Screws and hardware.** Stainless, marine-grade.

The kit is the complete drop-in. The only things you provide are basic hand tools, a drill, and patience for the cut.

Comparison: Sea-Doo ribbon delete kit market

The market for ribbon delete and intake-manifold modifications has fragmented over the past several years. The choice depends on your priorities:

**Choose GT40Marine RDK** if you want the complete kit including the hole saw, want manufacturer-direct support, and want a single SKU that covers the entire 1630 ACE family.

**Choose RIVA's plug** if you're already in the RIVA ecosystem and want dealer-channel installation support. Generally requires sourcing the hole saw separately.

**Choose IMUK / Fizzle** if you've already been steered there by an installer or a forum recommendation. Quality varies; cross-shop the specific part number you're being quoted.

**Choose the EVP V-Flow** if you want a different architectural approach. The V-Flow is a smaller-priced item but solves a different problem — it's not a direct substitute for a ribbon delete.

Install difficulty and what we won't tell you

The ribbon delete is one of the more intimidating jobs on a Sea-Doo because it involves cutting into the intake manifold. Done correctly, it's clean. Done incorrectly, you've damaged a manifold that costs hundreds of dollars to replace.

What we will tell you:

• The job takes 2–4 hours for a careful first-timer with the right tools and a clean workspace.
• The hole saw included in our kit is the correct diameter for a clean cut.
• The kit ships with fitment notes specific to your platform.
• Engineer support is direct — call or text us during the install if you hit a question.

What we will not tell you, in writing on this page, are:

• The exact cut location coordinates on the manifold.
• The torque values for the plug retainer.
• The order of operations for clamp removal and reinstall.

Reason: those details vary slightly across model years and across the 230/300/325 trims. A wrong number in print is a manifold-damaging mistake. We supply the values directly to the buyer, vetted against the specific craft.

Pairing the ribbon delete with the rest of the stack

The ribbon delete is most valuable as part of a complete intake-tract optimization. Native pairings:

**Cold air intake.** A clean ribbon-delete plug with the OEM airbox in place is half the story. The other half is the [cold air intake](/learn/sea-doo-air-intake) that supplies the air the manifold is now passing more freely.

**Open loop cooling kit.** Ribbon delete + [OLC kit](/learn/sea-doo-open-loop-cooling) are the two most-paired aftermarket items on serious 300/325 builds. Together they remove the two most common limiters on the platform.

**Stage 1 calibration.** A tune written to take advantage of the cleaner intake-tract pressure signal is where the ribbon delete actually pays for itself in measurable terms.

Reversibility

The ribbon delete is reversible — sort of. The billet plug can be removed, but the original rubber ribbon and the chamber geometry are not restorable to factory unless you replace the entire intake manifold. In practice, owners do not revert. The plug stays.

If you anticipate selling the craft and want to maximize resale to a stock-buyer market, consider whether the ribbon delete is worth the (small) hit on resale appeal. Most performance-marine buyers see the delete as a positive; some recreational-segment buyers prefer untouched factory hardware.

Frequently asked questions

Bottom line

The Sea-Doo ribbon delete kit is a complementary upgrade for serious 1630 ACE builds — not a first mod, but a high-value addition once the rest of the stack is in place. The GT40Marine kit at $160, with the hole saw, billet plug, brackets, and hardware included, is the complete drop-in.